Trying to unravel the tangled web of species under the genus Lavandula is a challenge to event the most accomplished horticulturalist. There is a lot of misinformation out there, so dear customer, please note that there is no such thing as English lavender!
There has been a lot of cross breeding that has resulted in a huge number of cultivars, even creating a bunch of sterile plants that are humorously known as ‘mule hybrids’!
The most widely grown lavender, commercially used for cosmetics and scent, is Lavandula Intermedia. This popular variety is a cross between L. angustifolia and L. latifolia; you will find this variety growing commercially throughout France, as well as in the largest producing country, Bulgaria. Commonly referred to as lavandin, these are extremely hardy plants with long flowering periods.
Lavenders are native to the Mediterranean, and has been widely cultivated throughout the world. In general, the lavender plant is a bushy and branching shrub with small, lavender flowers that grow on terminal spikes 6 to 8 inches long. The foliage is silvery gray, and hairy.
This member of the mint family does best in full sun and requires very good drainage. It can tolerate a bit of drought once it has been established, and we recommend a good pruning to encourage new blooms in the spring and summer. Although this plant is generally pest free, it is susceptible to fungus disease if not provided good drainage, full sun and proper air circulation.
Which Lavender is BEST for you?
The above information will help you decide on the perfect lavender for your garden. If you’re not sure which growing zone you live in, please check our plant hardiness zone map. Whichever one you decide on, please remember that lavenders require a bit of extra attention. They are Mediterranean natives, so remember that their enemy is too much moisture. To have success, please refer to these tips!
Important Lavender Care Tips:
- Well drained soil – lavenders will not tolerate poor drainage so add sand if you need to improve the quality of your soil. Most lavender ‘deaths’ occur because of wet roots. An alkaline soil is best.
- They cannot tolerate humidity: damp, still air makes them susceptible to fungus ailments
- Lavenders need full sun– 6 to 8 hours of sunshine for these Mediterranean natives
I planted lavender for the first time last year and feel they did well for the first season. They get plenty of sun (sun up to sun down) but my soil contains much clay, what can I do now that they have been in the ground almost a year?
I live in an area where the winters are wet, the summers are hot and dry and the soil is black sticky clay. When I moved into my house 6 years ago I inherited two lavender plants and then added at least 6 more. After lavender has made it through its first year and has established a good root system cut back on watering to once every 7 – 14 days. Water well then let it dry out before watering it again. Try to plant lavender with other drought tolerant plants especially if they are on a sprinkler system and then create a zone, if possible, where watering is less frequent. I have found that over watering is more of a problem than under watering especially with clay soils. Also pruning prevents them from getting woody.
Great points, and thank you for sharing. Yes, we think the #1 issue leading to lavender problems is overwatering and humidity!
Even if they are established, you can start working some sand into the soil around the rootball. And, as Rosenelle mentioned, making sure that you are not overwatering is imperative … they just cannot tolerate excess moisture and humidity. I’ve found that I water my rosemary plant 2 times more often than my lavender, if that helps. Another idea, if the plant has not rooted so firmly that to dig it up would hurt the root structure, you can dig it up and really turn up that clay and add amendments with sand (perlite, vermiculite) that will really help the soil drain better. Good luck!
start by having a soil test done. there will be recommendations. Also, gypsum is great for breaking down clay soils
I’ve always loved photos of fields of lavender, and I assumed it was easy to grow and that it quickly spread. I have tried and failed at growing several kinds of lavender. It must be because of our soil and humid climate, but I haven”t given up! This summer, I will try growing lavender in a pot outdoors. I noticed the description of Goodwin Creek lavender—can it be grown in a pot indoors? I assume it needs a sunny window.
Most problems growing lavender are due to not enough sun and too much water. Daily automatic sprinkler systems are not their friend. So cut back on watering. I have a Goodwin Creek Lavender growing in a pot with regular potting soil to which I added coarse sand. I leave it outside from last frost to first frost. It tolerates a light freeze but not a hard or prolonged freeze. My garage remains above freezing and has better sunlight than my house so I place it in the garage during the coldest part of winter. During the summer months I water every few days because it dries out faster in a pot. I also double pot it to keep the roots from baking—that is, I plant it in a pot then place it in a larger pot and stuff the space between the pots with soil, straw, dry grass clippings, leaves, styrofoam packing peanuts, etc., to help insulate the roots. I sometimes move it to a partly shaded location during the hottest part of the day in August.
Yes, Goodwin Creek is a great choice for potting up. If indoors, a very sunny window and a lot of air circulation. When you water, if the pot is easy to move, take it to the sink and use the spray attachment so that the foliage gets a spray. Not every time, but that ‘bath’ can help in preventing pests. And, let the plant really dry out before watering again!